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From La Transmission to Les Fa’Bulleuses: Femmes de Vin Advancing Champagne


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La transmission

Postby Shakazil В» 14.01.2020

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Twitter This year's harvest in France's famous Champagne region promises to be exceptional. Also exceptional may be women's increased presence in this important wine region, and the femmes de vin who are advancing Champagne.

Prompting our visit was learning about two new organizations formed by women. The first is La Transmission , an association of 10 women in Champagne seeking to modernize the industry, co-founded by two prominent women, Anne Malassagne, the fourth-generation co-owner of AR Lenoble, an independent, family-owned champagne house, and Maggie Henriquez, CEO and President of Krug Champagne since The second is Les Fa'Bulleuses de Champagne , an association of seven young women from independent champagne houses who came together to promote their champagnes, their region, and their know-how as winemakers.

We study women winemakers in major wine regions and report on prominent international wine regions such as Champagne where women winemakers and producers are receiving increasing recognition. We were eager to learn more about these two organizations. We also wished to meet those few women currently working as chef de caves in the large champagne houses.

Despite the fame of "The Widow Clicquot," 1 Champagne remains traditional with respect to the participation of women in the industry, with relatively few women in leading winemaker and leadership roles. The Champagne wine region , located approximately miles east northeast of Paris, is a strictly defined area encompassing villages in five different Regions see map.

In accordance with EU law and the laws of most countries, champagne - the wine - can only come from the Champagne wine region of France. Today's champagne remains as exotic, traditional, and complex as ever, but the wine-producing area itself is becoming increasingly similar to other major wine-producing areas in its use of organic and biodynamic practices and its increased emphasis on the importance of terroir.

Also important to note is that champagne has always been a blended wine. While there are more single-vineyard and single-village champagnes being made today, according to Liem the vast majority of these are composed of intricate blends. This is for reasons of practicality and quality: the Champagne region contends with perennial threats from weather, particularly hail storms and late Spring frosts, so blending helps maintain quality from year to year.

Our Visits and Conversations with the Femmes de Vin. La Transmission Femmes en Champagne. We contacted Anne Malassagne of AR Lenoble, and she graciously arranged a visit with herself and three other members of the association of which she and Maggie Henriquez are co-founders. Anne also invited us to return for Le Printemps des Champagnes , a weeklong celebration of the champagnes of independent producers, to attend an event sponsored by La Transmission , and there we were able to meet all the members of this group.

Photo, above: Le Printemps des Champagnes, April Not pictured, Floriane Eznack Champagne Jacquart. Anne and Maggie had a joint concern about the relative invisibility of women in shaping the future of a changing Champagne region. Not wanting to focus on a particular house or region, they invited women with "no ego about the Champagne region," to meet about facilitating a cultural change that would include the women in Champagne. The result was their founding the organization named La Transmission , now nearly two years old.

These 10 women of Champagne were brought together by the shared values of quality, respect for the land, cooperation, and concern about the direction of the region's future. We use our knowledge and experience as leaders to think about constructive change and how to bring it about," said Evelyne Boizel, who has a long history of leadership at Champagne Boizel, a fifth-generation champagne house.

By design, in order to speak credibly for the Champagne region, its membership is diverse and includes leaders or owners of estates of different sizes and organizational structures, representatives of the different regions, and women from different generations. La Transmission brings a collaborative, forward-looking vision to "the woman in Champagne," and has among its goals sharing and passing on their experience, culture, know-how and values, serving as the next wave of champions for women across the region, and leading a collective effort to modernize the future of Champagne.

Its members believe that women need to be - and will be - part of that evolution to the future: Champagne becoming more modern has the double effect of changing cultural views both of women and of champagne. Charline Drappier of Champagne Drappier, who is among the younger members of La Transmission , emphasized the importance of women who know the ins-and-outs of the business banding together to ensure their knowledge is passed on, est transmis , as guidance. Although more women are entering the field than in past decades, Anne and others agreed that guidance remains important for young women to move up in the industry, particularly when they have a family.

Chantal Gonet, of Champagne Phillipe Gonet, agreed and added: "It is important to explain what we have done to incorporate modern attitudes such as flexible work schedules and how we have done it.

Finally, La Transmission also seeks to promote champagne's versatility and approachability as a wine. Champagne can be enjoyed at any occasion, not just celebratory ones.

In sum, the women of La Transmission aim to bring about the key changes needed to move the Champagne region to the next stage - changing cultural views both of women and of champagne. Activities to date. La Transmission sponsors important educational workshops and special tastings for sommeliers, importers, and other prominent people in the wine industry.

The group also organized an important activity associated with the weeklong Le Printemps des Champagnes. The winemaking team in many champagne houses is large, involving multiple winemakers; the chef de cave French for cellar master is the one who heads the group and provides overall direction Liem, We were also able to visit with one of the only two female chef de caves of a cooperative where growers sell grapes to the cooperative and receive champagne to market under their own label as well as that of the cooperative.

As a group, the five chef de caves were well educated, passionate about champagne, and relatively young. All had been appointed as chef de cave in the 21 st century, the first in , and the most recent in All were the first female to be appointed chef de cave at their respective champagne house.

And all noted the presence of few women in their field but felt encouraged by what appeared to be women's increased presence in the industry and the creation of supportive organizations and assemblies. She is also a member of La Transmission. Today, under the ownership of the Alliance Champagne group, there are 1, partner growers cultivating 2, hectares of vines.

From this large and diverse palette of vines, the fruit from hectares spread over sixty different crus is carefully selected to make the JACQUART champagnes. According to Floriane, "There is a true love between women and champagne. Floriane is the youngest of the chef de caves we met. Born in the Cognac area of France in , she grew up in London and Paris.

Her parents, both diplomats, introduced her to wine and travel at an early age. After completing a degree in biochemistry in Paris, she decided on the wine industry as a career path, and completed her master's degree in enology in in Reims.

Not being from the Champagne area, Floriane knew it would be hard to find a position in the wine industry there. Consequently, she moved to southwest France and worked as a wine consultant for two years. While there, she worked with a cellar master "who really taught me about winemaking. She was one of the two women on this team. The Wines. We moved to a special laboratory for a most educational tasting. Floriane was very articulate in explaining the complexities of champagne, how blending is the key, and how to taste.

While tasting, we also discussed questions currently on her mind, such as how one uses the position of winemaker to modernize a champagne house, and whether women really have an influence in the making of champagne and the future of Champagne as a wine region. She sees her role as challenging the team to use its true talents to modernize the house and produce champagnes made with passion, elegance, and emotion.

Its harmonious blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has depth and finesse, and transmits passion. It is new every year! Founded in , Piper-Heidsieck is among the 10 best-selling champagne brands in the world.

Her father urged her "to study a 'masculine' field," get a "'masculine' job, and be independent. Growing up, she became fascinated with picking grapes and worked in the cellar of family friends. There were very few women in winemaking at that time, and it was difficult for her to find a position at a champagne house.

The friends talked and that led to her being hired there! When she finished this assignment in , she was made manager of the winery and bottling process, and in , the deputy chef de cave. There were so few women. One has to resist with a smile and be strong, and confident. She and her husband have two children, now aged 6 and When asked what it takes to be a successful chef de cave , her response was "passion, intuition, and memory.

Referring to the challenge of keeping track of the wines, she says, "My head is filled with drawers of my memory, all arranged, all in its place in the drawers. An informative tasting of vins clairs and champagnes was the setting for our lively conversation. We tasted vins clairs from different villages to get a sense of how each brought a different element to the blend and then sampled the champagnes themselves.

She was the first female chef de cave at both champagne houses. Caroline Latrive is the chef de cave of Champagne Ayala , located in Ay.

Established in by Edmond de Ayala, and later purchased by the Bollinger group in , it is among the historic houses in Champagne. Caroline was appointed Ayala's chef de cave in She took over from Nicolas Klym who had been the chef de cave for over 25 years. Caroline, who is from Reims, always wanted to work with wine but never dreamed she would be a chef de cave!

Her father was an enologist and had his own lab, and her grandfather was a wine grape grower and later president of a wine growers association. Her passion for champagne comes from her childhood and experiences with her family. She has vivid memories of the smell of grapes being crushed, for example, and her father asking her to describe what she smelled and tasted.

However, as she noted, "Twenty-five years ago it was not so simple for a woman at 16 or 18 years old to be confident in this field. Upon finishing her studies, she completed an informative internship at a cooperative, and Blanc de Blancs became imprinted on her. Her first job was at Champagne Bollinger, but after only four months there, she opted to join her father at his lab, giving advice to growers. She loved the diversity of the work. Her career path shifted significantly four years later when her father decided to sell his lab, leading Caroline to return to school to get her ISO Quality Control Certificate.

It was during this time period that her two children were born. After obtaining her certificate, Caroline returned to Champagne Bollinger for a two-month internship that led to a position in quality management.

When Champagne Bollinger purchased Ayala in , she was asked to oversee quality management there. In , she was appointed Ayala's assistant cellar master, and its chef de cave in Caroline does not understand why there are so few women named as chef de cave , but she is hopeful that the culture is changing.

She thinks the style at Ayala is more open-minded than most large champagne houses and that its team is younger. She sees more women involved in vinification and is encouraged by groups such as Les Fa'Bulleuses. Her advice: be yourself, do the job with conviction, do a good job. As chef de cave , Caroline is the keeper of the Ayala's style - "Freshness, elegance, and low dosage.

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Re: la transmission

Postby Akikasa В» 14.01.2020

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Re: la transmission

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Re: la transmission

Postby Akinor В» 14.01.2020

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Re: la transmission

Postby Gor В» 14.01.2020

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